When it comes to Riesling, julien Jean Renard plays Champions League. He’s quite the character: engaging, straight-shooting, rebellious – a maverick deeply committed to squeezing the best possible wine out of his grapes. Raised in northern Germany as the son of a French-German couple, he moved to Winningen, near Koblenz in the Terrassenmosel, to become a winemaker. He now runs a tiny garagiste operation, farming his 0.7 hectares of vines as organically as possible and keeping intervention in the cellar to a bare minimum. What his winery lacks in size, he makes up for in quality. Although he’s not a fan of the term, his ‘natural wines’ are top of the line.